Cacharel FW10

A plexi catwalk, a voice, a schocking pink invitation. Cacharel gets an injection of youthfulness by young Belgian designer Cedric Charlier. The La Cambre graduate has been living in Paris quite a while now assisting Alber Elbaz in the Lanvin house for six years. Last year this talented young Belgian finally got his chance to step into the spotlights when he became Creative Director for one of the most ‘French’ fashion houses: Cacharel. The house was steered by a few designers the last years. Eley Kishimoto for example but the aesthetics of the English-Japanese couple didn’t wow Paris and after one season they disappeared. It’s Cedric’s second season and Cacharel becomes the young designer. He’s a fresh breath of air for the house and you notice that he did thorough research in the Cacharel archives. He’s not the kind of designer that would turn around the entire vision of a house, he will show his respect by reinventing the past and that’s what he did. The show started with the perfect French school girl (or call it garçonne if you want). Shorts, plead skirts, perfect tailored jackets and blazers in dark blue and black. The notorious Liberty print was used in sweaters, cardigans, two-piece suits and even shoes -that were all flats by the way. The journey continues and the school girl becomes a young woman who throws off her uniform wearing colourful floral dresses with sophisticated folds, skirts with interesting pleating combined with aubergine cardigans and sweaters or tailored green hooded jackets.
The floral print is a Cacharel classic but a young designer has to step it up a notch and that’s what Charlier did with the next series: photographic prints with trompe l’oeil drapery and folds. They turned up in dresses, wide pants, shirts and jackets. The optical tricks continued with three classy all-black silhouettes becoming more transparent in the bottom part (without being vulgar). The grande finale fused it all together. The plexi catwalk filled itself with smoke, shocking pink leds lit up and a remix called out a patchwork of the old and new prints in perfectly cut party dresses. I’m sure the room was full of young women who would love to get the party started in one of those dresses.
All pictures through Style.com courtesey of Marcio Madeira / FirstView.com

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